August 14

Such a different morning! Sunshine and comfort, and all are happy to be in one place for a few days. Today was all aboutgeysers and thermal pools and paint pots (bubble mud!). No chance to forget you were in a very different landscape. We loved Old Faithful, as we knew we would, but also got a kick out of the grand old lodge there. Much needed showers for adults turned out to be substantially cheaper than the rooms -- nice. Back to camp in time for an evening fishing the Madison (a bust, but fun) and a fire.

August 13

Drove back to Jenny Lake from our campground at Colter Bay for a hike and a closer look at the mountains we could see so well from our lakeside campground. Well worth the investment! A short diversion on the way to Hidden Falls led us to the Moose Pond Loop (appropriately named), where we got to look down on a pair of big ones munching reeds and happily wading around. A real treat.

Pooped and a little later than expected when we got to the other side of the lake, kids and Clare hopped on the boat back while Dan hoofed it. They had some rangering up to do after all. We drove out of GTNP feeling there was a lot to come back to. Coming into Yellowstone late we were very happy to have a reservation and a spot waiting for us. Arrived in the dark, in the rain, and hungry. Our most uncomfortable set-up yet, but kids were troopers. No-frills hot-dog dinner then to bed. Glad once we were finally warm in our bags.

August 12

West again, this time through Dan's old Idaho stomping grounds from NOLS days, then up and over and down again into Wyoming. Jackson Hole hasn't changed much in all these years. Still easy to find a t-shirt or a cup of good coffee but hard to find camping gas. Grand Teton National Park tonight. We're all still waiting on the first bison sighting -- maybe this will be the place.

Kids are excited for yet another opportunity to become Jr. Rangers. Their hats and jackets are decorated with ranger badges and patches from all the national parks and national monuments we've been to so far. Requirements vary, but each park has some sort of written activity book to complete and most require kids to attend a ranger-led hike or education program. Really a brilliant idea -- kids are very engaged, and rangers now have crowds of little ones seeking them out all day. Before we leave anyplace we set aside time to "ranger up" at the visitor center, which is our term for the checking and oath-taking and swearing in that makes it all official. It's usually a fairly serious procedure, but it also usually ends in a public cheer for the new Jr. Rangers and smiles all around.

Excellent ranger program tonight at the campground about the night sky, led by a former astronomy professor with the world's most powerful laser pointer. Everyone wanted one. Now we want a star chart too.

August 11

Reluctant to pull away from great beach-side campsite, but after pancakes and coffee with the neighbors we got on the road north and west. Big spaces moving from mountains to flats to high plains, then suddenly black rock all around sparsely flecked with sagebrush. Weirdest environment to date! We were entering Craters of the Moon National Monument. Winds were so gusty we put off setting camp and went on a tour of attractions instead. Favorite stop was at a series of caves you could explore. We expected the usual overly-managed, too-well-travelled kind of national parks experience, but these felt real. "Wild" caves, as they put it. Managed to wiggle hundreds of feet down into narrowing passages by the light of inadequate flashlights, finding permanent ice floes and weird formations. Great fun. Kids loved "Indian Caves," a series of lava tubes 800+ feet long and 30 feet high that are exposed at intervals where the ceiling has fallen so you don't need your inadequate flashlight. Striking. This park would be an amazing set for some off-planet movie. Made a big impression! Great campsite in volcanic gravel under wild stars!

August 10

On our way this morning, but not before provisioning at Trader Joe's (we've missed it so). Then drove, drove, drove past second guessing and confusion to a neat Army Corps of Engineers campground on the dammed-up Boise River. Good company for all of us, but especially for Henry who had three boys to play with who were sharing our private beach and dock. S'mores for everyone around the campfire and stayed up late just because. Couldn't be nicer.

August 9

An added day today because we just couldn't leave Bend without visiting Smith Rock. It's a climbing thing. Really nice day today with kiddos right around the corner from Chain Reaction, To Bolt of Not to Be, etc. They didn't do so good on 5.14b, but turns out there's plenty of gorgeous 5.6 at Smith. We drove away wishing for an extended stay here. Good TV evening with Josie and Dorothy back in Bend. Back at it tomorrow, with a big day toward Idaho!

August 7 and 8

Bend, OR! So glad to be with wonderful cousins Josie and Dorothy and contemplating our big turn eastward soon. We're feeling the length of the voyage a little, but still excited for Yellowstone, for Devils Tower, for Mt. Rushmore and other things. It's hard to leave opportunities unpursued, but it's good to think of home too. Still, a big old country separating us from our beds!

Welcomed Dan and Angela and Sophie and Elie Mahoney next morning (8/8), who were nice enough to make the 3+ hour trip from Salem just to hang with us. Good friends indeed! And good cousins, to let us make it quite a houseful. Excellent float with many of us down the Deschutes, then fine salmon dinner with well chosen microbrews (it's Mahoney, after all). Perfect day. Liz got the added bonus of finally riding a horse today with a private trip to visit Dorothy's baby, Melia. What a thrill, and a special time with Dorothy to boot.